FREE SHIPPING In the US (Excludes Hawaii & Alaska)
Here are some useful tips to ensure the safe operation of your PauHana Fire Pit.
This is a very sturdy and well-built unit designed for a lifetime of pleasure, but good common sense should always be used when operating the fire pit. I hope you enjoy this item as much as I, and many others have.
-Forrest Harper
There are a number of ways to start a fire in the fire bowl, but the preferred method is to use a lighter and starter pellets that can be found in most grocery stores or paraffin logs used for lighting fires. Soak these materials with lighter fluid and light the fire.
If you are in a remote area and don’t have fire starting materials, of course, you can use small twigs, branches, pine cones, or anything small that is combustible. Once you have a small fire started, you can begin adding larger pieces of wood until the fire reaches the desired size.
Starting a fire in wet weather is a completely different situation. In some situations you can pull back wet foliage on the ground and find drier foliage underneath for use.
You may also use oil-based wood such as pine or cedar. If you have an axe, hatchet or knife, you can cut off slivers of wood to serve as your starter material. Once that begins burning, you can begin adding larger pieces of wood.
It is rare that you would start a fire in the rain, but if you choose to, you can use the plate to protect the burning material from falling rain. Remember that this will generate a lot of heat.
When using the tilt feature, lift one bracket until it rests on the top ring of the base. You may use either side of the bracket for different angles to direct the heat. When using the more aggressive tilt, you usually need to adjust the tilt back some. If you notice the bowl pictured here, the logs are sitting on a larger log at the base. This works best for me. As they burn, the logs will fall into the bowl and not on the ground. Also notice that the logs are being loaded from the side of the bowl. This allows the logs that are burning in the center to radiate continuous heat.
Whether in the tilt or upright position, unless you are trying to get a fire started for later, never load new logs over logs that are burning well. This diminishes the radiant heat the burning logs are emitting.
As we know, hot air rises and cooler air sinks. The top rim of the bowl pulls air downward; so don’t worry about the air getting to the bottom of the bowl. The curvature of the bowl is quite sufficient for that.
Some people may want to drill a hole in the bottom of the bowl to allow for water to drain. I recommend against this. A sizable hole at the bottom of the bowl diminishes the heat base and reduces the efficiency of the fire. A smaller hole will clog with ash and do essentially nothing. Furthermore any coals that might fall through a hole in the bowl can be a fire hazard.
The grilling grate fits equally over the rim of the bowl or onto the brackets, leaving it slightly above the bowl.
The flat plate does the same, and can be slid directly over the bowl if you are finished with the fire and wish to leave, or you can place it above the bowl on the three brackets for roasting oysters.
The 1” wing and 1/8” scissor fire tongs make it easy to place the logs into the fire bowl so you can get your best burn. They are also a great safety feature, keeping your hands and arms further from the fire. There are two options when it comes to the bowl mount base. The first is a steel base. The second is a “hot-dipped” galvanized, air-dried base. The air-drying allows the finished bracket to hold paint. The second base is the one I prefer due to it’s longer life.